Pesticide Free Lawns

Pesticide Free Lawns

The calibre of your lawn cannot be judged by what you see, but what you don’t. The lifeblood of a lush green lawn is the high quality, biodiverse soil underneath it. Pesticide-free lawns are easy, affordable and healthier. Remember the term “ORGANIC” and you’re well on your way to a lush, green, pesticide-free lawn.

O

verseed

It’s simple: a thick lawn will crowd out weeds, so overseed. Overseeding generally should occur during the early fall or spring. Bare patches can easily be repaired by heavily raking the ground, adding a1/2 inch of light soil, and applying grass seed instead of pesticides. You can overseed your entire lawn as well to introduce more drought and disease resistant grass species. When seeding your lawn, make sure to keep it well watered so that it can germinate. If you choose to, topdress your lawn with compost and/or triple mix at the same time.

R

emove

When you’re faced with thatch, weeds and or insects, remove them manually, don’t reach for the applicator. Thatch is a tough mixture of dead grass and roots that harbours harmful insects such as cinch bugs. Found at the surface, if thatch builds up to over a 1/2 inch, water, air, and valuable nutrients will not be able to reach the soil, thus making your grass more vulnerable to drought, infestation, and disease. You can remove any excess thatch with a heavy rake in the late spring or early summer. Try to develop a healthy soil; it will actually have all the components necessary to break thatch down naturally.

G

rass Cycling

Save time and money by leaving your dry, short, nutrient-rich grass clippings on your lawn. Through grass cycling you reduce your need for fertilizers by over 30%. The grass mulch encourages your lawn to grow deeper roots and the soil to retain more moisture therefore allowing your lawn to become more resistant to drought, infestation and disease. Grass cycling does not cause thatch if it’s done properly. Make sure to grass-cycle when your lawn is dry. Grass being high in nitrogen, it is essential for it to remain on your lawn to ensure a healthy environment for lush growth.

A

erate

Aerating your lawn relieves soil compaction and provides a more efficient means for water, air and vital nutrients to reach plant roots. If the surface of your lawn is hard and compact, or thatch is beginning to build up, or water is no longer penetrating the surface, well ,it’s time to aerate your lawn. Aerating, as a general rule, can be done either during the spring or fall, depending on your soil conditions. You can purchase special shoes equipped with spikes that are sufficient for aerating small lawns. You don’t have to rent one of those special aerating machines to get the job done.

N

utrients

By spreading compost or triple mix topsoil your lawn (also known as topdressing), you introduce much-needed nutrients and organic material to the existing soil. Topdressing is simple: with a rake spread a thin layer of compost over your entire lawn. Commercial fertilizers are also available. Usually they contain three valuable nutrients in a ratio suitable for certain lawn types. The first value, nitrogen, is used to promote leaf growth. The next, phosphorus, is a nutrient used to encourage root growth. Lastly you have potassium, which is essential for reducing stress.

I

rrigate

Water, water, water!. Water deeply (1″) once a week, early in the morning to promote deep root growth. Too much water will starve your soil of oxygen and nutrients. Too little will encourage a shallow root growth. Shallow roots will result in your lawn being more susceptible to drought and various pest problems. Watering during the afternoon leads to evaporation. Watering in the evening will leave your lawn wet for a longer period of time, increasing its risk of fungal diseases. If you’re not sure how long it takes to water an inch try using a rain gauge, or fabricate one yourself.

C

ut High

Cut your grass to a height of 3 inches. This will provide shade, and consequently will lead to moister soil, deep and extensive root systems, and the prevention of weed seeds germinating. All in all, you will have a thicker lawn. Make sure not to stress your grass. Stressed grass will lead to its roots receding, making it more prone to drought, disease and infestation. To avoid stressing your grass, use only a sharp blade and never cut more than a third off at one time. Also make sure never to cut your lawn when it is wet. The wet grass clippings left on your lawn will encourage disease to enter your system.

Sometimes due to soil conditions, grass just won’t grow there. If this the case, try planting something more suitable for that area: trees, perennials, ground covers, wild native flowers, or even add stones.

Most insects are not harmful. Many are even crucial to the ecology of your soil. So if a dandelion or another type of pest pops up don’t reach for the pesticide applicator. Try different means to remove it, and if all else fails develop a tolerance for it. Find a balance between what you want and what you need.
A healthy pesticide-free lawn, full of life, is an ideal place to relax. So enjoy it and invite others to the same.